Frequently Asked Questions

Q:

What makes Waterwisp flies different from other so-called upside-down flies?

A:

Three special features. First, other "upside-down" flies have the hackle at the eye of the fly. Waterwisp flies have the hackle tied to the bend of the hook. Second, the eye of the Waterwisp fly is vertical, to help reduce microdrag. Third, the shank of the Waterwisp hook is angled for balance and to imitate an insect body sitting in the surface film.

Q:

Does the hackle interfere with hooking?

A:

No. The Waterwisp hook is specially designed to accommodate hackle and retain hooking power.

Q:

Is an upturned Waterwisp hook more likely to damage a fish than a conventional hook?

A:

No. There hasn't been a single reported case of a Waterwisp hook penetrating the roof of a trout's mouth.

Q:

What's the best way to hook a fish with Waterwisp dry flies?

A:

Slow down your strike. Because Waterwisps look so much like live insects, fish tend to sip rather than attack them. Waterwisps work best when fished in the classical manner: a brief pause before setting the hook, then a gentle lift of the rod tip.

Q:

How do I revive a sinking Waterwisp?

A:

First, wash any fish slime off the fly and dry it in a fold of your shirt, a paper towel or a piece of chamois or amadou. Then dip the fly in a dry powder desiccant like Top Ride or Dry Shake. However, don't ever use liquid or paste floatant on Waterwisp flies.

Q:

Why not use liquid floatant on a Waterwisp?

A:

The body of all Waterwisp flies, except the deerhair beetle, is made of cul-de-canard, the naturally oil-impregnated feather from around the preening gland of ducks. Paste or liquid floatants will mat the cul-de-canard and reduce its natural floatability.